Oecusse Travel Guide: Timor-Leste's Enclave in West Timor

Why go

Oecusse (Oé-Cusse Ambeno) is one of the least-visited corners of Southeast Asia. It is the part of Timor where the Portuguese first landed, at Lifau in 1515, and it stayed Portuguese when the rest of West Timor became Dutch and later Indonesian. Today it is a quiet region of rice fields, mountains and empty beaches around the small, spread-out capital, Pante Macassar.

Getting there

The overnight ferry from Dili takes about 13 hours and costs USD 8 to 10. APORTIL runs two boats on the route, the Berlin Ramelau (USD 8, departing 17:00) and MV Success (USD 10, departing 16:00), several times a week. Cabins can sometimes be arranged at extra cost; otherwise bring a sleeping mat and snacks.

Aero Dili also flies between Dili and Oecusse.

Overland through West Timor is possible but needs an Indonesian visa and re-entry to Timor-Leste. Ask for a multiple-entry visa on arrival in Dili if you plan this.

What to do

• Lifau: a monument marks the first Portuguese landing in 1515, west of Pante Macassar.
• Beaches and snorkelling at Lifau reef, Aosnak and Sakato. Bring your own gear.
• Pante Macassar: electric tuk-tuks (about 50 cents) and bicycle hire (about USD 3 a day).
• Mountains and waterfalls inland, best reached by 4WD; waterfalls are fullest from January to April.

Where to stay

There are a few small hotels and guesthouses in Pante Macassar, including Hotel Inur Sakato, Gratidão Guest House and Rao Guest House, and the beachfront Oé-Cusse Amasat guesthouse. Book ahead; there are few rooms.

Practical tips

• Bring enough cash from Dili; ATMs in Oecusse are unreliable.
• Roads outside Pante Macassar are rough; hire a 4WD for trips inland.
• Very few visitors come here, so English is less widely spoken. A few words of Tetum help.